From Headhunters to Coffee Farmers: The Bugkalot Story
- Timothy Ebio
- 1 hour ago
- 3 min read
I visited a Philippine coffee farm in the mountains of Nueva Vizcaya with hectares upon hectares of heritage Liberica coffee trees.
I came here with a small team documenting Philippine coffee’s heritage. We drove three hours from Manila on the highway, and then another two hours on a dirt road so bumpy it popped one of our tires. The bridge to enter the community had been washed away earlier that year by Typhoon Pepito, so we hopped out of our car, and risked our lives climbing a makeshift driftwood ladder that extended thirty feet from the bottom of a river up to the bridge. A motorcycle with a metal sidecar was waiting for us at the top. We loaded our things, drove through the forest to a drop-off point, and then hiked the remaining two-hour journey under the Philippine sun.
We were chasing the origin story of Bugkalot coffee - the heritage barako plantations of an indigenous group once known in the Philippines for their fierce warrior tradition: headhunting.
From Warriors to Farmers — The Legacy of Bugkalot Coffee
These farms spanned multiple generations. They are symbols of hope, purpose, and dignity - a chance to change the reputation of their people. To be known for their coffee, not violence.
As we walked under the canopy of heritage coffee trees, awestruck, I realized something odd… None of the trees had been harvested. The branches were bending over with the weight of the cherries. The ground was littered with fruit. When I asked why, the answer was simple: the typhoon had destroyed the bridge and made it impossible to bring the cherries down from the mountain.
Recent industry reports have noted that the Philippines consumes more coffee than it produces, resulting in many brands relying heavily on imports.
On paper, it seems like we ‘just’ don’t have enough coffee trees, but speaking to Filipino coffee farmers, I now realize that the conversation around Philippine coffee production is a lot more nuanced than simply one of supply and demand. It is true that the Philippines needs more trees. It is also true that many of the trees we do have go unharvested.
When Bridges Break — The Hidden Barriers to Harvest
I spoke with Lee, the first farmer to bring barako coffee up into this part of the Sierra Madre mountain range. He shared the story of the typhoon that swept through his land, the damage to the trees, and loss in the harvest. Still, he was beaming with pride and hope. This farm was his heritage - a legacy he was excited to pass on to his children. His daughter shared with me that this farm was how they were changing the narrative about who the Bugkalot are. They are no longer headhunters like their ancestors, they are coffee farmers, and proud.
The diversity of the Philippine archipelago and its people gives Philippine coffee its range. Philippine coffee is shaped by centuries of history, indigenous farming knowledge, and resilience. Philippine coffee isn’t singular. Each mountain range has its own character, each people group their own culture, making each coffee an opportunity to explore the deeper questions. Who farmed this? What’s their story?
Beyond a coffee’s flavor notes, it’s the answers to these questions which reveal the true value of a coffee. The Philippines remains severely underrepresented in the specialty coffee world - not due to lack of quality, but lack of access to global markets, consistent logistics, and post-harvest infrastructure. Even simple acts like seeking out a traceable bag of Philippine coffee challenges the infrastructures which keep emerging origins invisible. It tells producers to invest in the sorting facilities, technology, and the roads which actually take the coffee from farm to cup.
A New Reputation, Rooted in Dignity
Standing among those unharvested trees, I realized that Philippine coffee’s story isn’t just about what’s in the cup, but the systems and stories that decide whether the cherries ever make it off the branch.
As the Philippines continues to emerge to the international specialty coffee world, it’s the work of these farmers that shapes the origin’s reputation.
Filipino farmers aren’t just growing coffee. They’re growing a new story for their people.
With gratitude to Trystan James Smith, whose photography captures not just landscapes but lives — giving form to the quiet strength and dignity within each story told here.
